Sunday, September 17, 2006

Holy carp! Look at this dress!

Alas, the photos of on this site are protected, so I can't post one (not the best marketing strategy, hello!) but day-um, is this dress for sale at Blue Velvet Vintage not one of the best dang balloon dresses you've ever seen?

Update: Teresa at Blue Velvet Vintage kindly told me how to grab a picture of the dress, and here it is in all it's purple, blue and green glory. As an extra special touch, the neckline of the dress is outlined with appliqued cut-out roses. Ain't it grand?

Vintage styles on Project Runway's runway.

I'm not going to write about PR Episode 11 in any detail because I didn't like it. It was too full of gimmicks -- returning auf'd designers, black-and-white only palette, instructions to use every scrap of material instructions -- and the resulting garments were awful. As the series progresses you can see the fatigue setting in, and I don't expect the garments produced in next week's episode to be any better. But most of all, whatever is produced on the shows is old news because New York runway shows for the final four designers has already taken place, and those are the garments that count.

You can see the four collections at NY Magazine Online. From the photos, I liked the viewer-selected evil Jeffrey Sebelia's collection best. Then I saw about 60 seconds of video on the Style Channel's fashion week coverage, and I thought Michael Knight's collection looked best, even though I thought the same stuff looked terribly hoochie-mama in the still photographs. I'm sure the judges, who get to see the collections close-up and personal, will see something entirely different from what the rest of PR world sees (gawd knows they have all season) and pluck a winner out of the air. What evah.

The collections caught my attention for two reasons: the vintage references, and the attention to current trends. In the first two seasons the designers made clothes as if they lived in a vacuum. This season, at least they did a few things "real" designers were doing, like using lots of white and metallics. Hey, if Marc Jacobs does it, it must be good, right?

Vintage is a trend, too, and it was the vintage inspired dresses that really "turned me on," to borrow one of Vinsane's vintage expressions. In the pictures at left, from top to bottom, there's Michael Knight doing YSL safari, Vincent Sebelia doing 50s New Look, Uli Herzner doing 1960s Mod and 1970s disco caftan. Wheee! What a treat!

I don't think I've seen anyone who's chosen Uli as the winner of PR because she's been making the same kind of dress all season, but win/lose/schmooze, I bet her dresses will sell like crazy. Her designs have "Rachel Zoe" written all over them, and I can so see Nicole, Lindsay, Mary Kate, Nicki blah blah blah wearing them. In fact, I would LOVE to see the aforementioned persons wearing Uli -- well, maybe not, there'd be a lot less material for the Fug Girls.

There was a fourth collection, by super-mom Laura Bennett, but I found it more Morticia Addams than anything else and -- well, that's all I have to say about it.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Vintage Styles at New York Fashion Week, Part 3 -- The circus has come to town!

In the late 1950s, the French called it the trapeze, in the 1960s the Americans called it the tent, your Mom may have called it a muu-muu, whatever, it's baaaaaaaaack. The billowy dress, fitted at the shoulder and straight down and out from there.

According to Fashion-Era:

"The Trapeze dress was a swinging dress almost triangular in shape and designed to be worn with low shoes and bouffant hairstyles. Over the years it too was modified into the short baby doll tent style making the 60's version. A shaped Tent dresses with cutaway armholes were an alternative look of the sixties."

This dress the dream of every pregnant woman and perfect for hot summer days and nights. It's also totally without sex appeal, unless it's worn really short, which is how it was originally worn, with tights or panties, not a thong, otherwise the wearer can kiss her dignity good-bye at the first gust of wind.

And you can be pretty darn sure that if Diane von Furstenberg is wearing a trapeze this week, Mrs. Jones will be wearing one next Spring.

Both of the dresses pictured here are DVF, but were multple trapeze dresses in most of the collections, many plainly referencing the 60s. The pink, white and orange DVF looks like it came out of a time-capsule from 1966.

There are always lots of vintage trapeze/tent dress patterns on e-bay. The Simplicity pattern pictured here is from Macojero's Sewing Patterns and she's got more, featuring tents that are little more than A-frames to tents full enough to hold the Ringling Bros. circus. I think older and larger women who want to test drive a tent dress should probably stick to a more tailored versions, to avoid those "when's the baby due," questions. And we don't want anyone to look like she's wearing a tent dress because she has no alternative. Otherwise I think we should all loosen our waistbands and enjoy!

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Vintage Influences for Spring 2007, Part 2 -- The 20s in 2007

Thank the Gods of Fashion, designers have finally gotten over the plunging-v-neck, empire waist, totally unwearable by me, silhouette they've featured for the last few seasons. And seeking to stimulate business as all fashion designers do, they've dropped the waistline from right under the armpits to right at the hips so that fashionistas everywhere will scurry to the stores for the latest thing.

In the case of the drop-waist dresses, the latest thing is about 80 years old, but that's just fine with me. I'm a total 20s freak, and in particular, a 20s American ex-pat in Paris freak ("A Moveable Feast," YES! "Babylon Revisited," YES! "Mrs. Parker and the Vicious Circle," YES!) so I love any garment with a hint of flapper. And considering that most vintage garments from the 20s are too fragile or too rare to really wear (I can imagine myself now, dropping spaghetti sauce on the front of a 1920s silk frock, and subsequently dropping dead in shock) a modern reproduction is a great alternative.

The top white dress is from Tracy Reese. I'm a Tracy Reese fan; she always does colorful, feminine clothes, and they're fairly available online and at better department stores. Her collection this spring was full of 20s-influenced styles.

The embroidered black and silver robe de style is from Reem Acra, a designer of high-end wedding and red-carpet gowns, If she's making drop-waist dresses, we can expect to see some on celebrities soon, and I hope they get a pass from the tits-and-ass obsessed fashion police.

The apple-green dress is from BCBG. This dress is kind of 80s (off the shoulder) meets 20s, but I was attracted to it because of the color. I'm drawn to bright apple greens like a moth to flame, and like flame, they're no good for me. Not for nothing is that color also called poison green -- I put it on and I immediately look like a victim of liver failure. But still I it calls to me, like Nimue calling to Merlin. Cooooooooooooome . . . touch the greeeeeeeeen . . .

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Vintage styles at New York Fashion Week, Part 1


There have been lots and lots of vintage looks at the Spring 2007 shows in New York this week. There are many 20s-style drop-waist dresses and there's been wholesale plundering of 60s styles in the form of trapeze (aka tent) dresses, neat little Jackie dresses, and ethnic-style tunics, two of which are shown at left -- the paler one is from Nicole Miller, the bottom one is from Diane von Furstenberg.

I love the tunic look -- what could be nicer than a neat little pull-over shift? They're versatile, too: tunics, unlike dresses, can be worn over pants without making the wearer look like a doofus, because after all, that's how tunics were meant to be worn. They'd look equally good worn over leggings (I hate footless leggings, but I know when I've lost the fashion battle), and as shown, they make nifty little dresses. I would wear mine longer, having worn it short the first time around, but I think this is actually a style that could be recycled in spite of the admonition that if you're old enough to wear a style the first time around, you should wear it on its revival. Tunics have been worn for thousands of years, after all.

There are often vintage tunic patterns for sale, some of which look darn similar to the dresses shown here. There are contemporary patterns for kurtas available too. So it's fairly easy for you sewists to get a current look at a fraction of the price of a designer dress, and that's always a good thing, isn't it?

Saturday, September 09, 2006

Following New York Fashion Week

There's going to be lots of coverage, of course, but I recommend the Fashion Week coverage in New York Magazine. Nice, big, clear pictures from the collections. The orange outfit at left is from Verrier, who, according to NYM, is going "back to the 40s," which in my book is not bad at all. And that's not all -- the Fug Girls are contributing to NYM's column Show & Talk. Whoo hoo! Fasten your seatbelts, it's going to be a funny ride!

Thursday, September 07, 2006

Project Runway -- sweatin' like a whore in church.

Whew! Episode 9 was another entertaining installment of PR, even though its required "uncomfortable moment" was perhaps the most uncomfortable of the season. That moment occurred when Vinsane, whom Laura aptly dubbed "a legend in his own mind" hit on French judge Catherine Maladrino in the most spectacular demonstration of poor judgment in PR history. She not only had the power of PR life or death over him but she also looks like she could knock him into the middle of next week. Unfortunately, while she exercised the former course of action (by writing "no, no, no, no, no" all over his evaluation card) she refrained from the latter, thus depriving reality TV of one spectacular smackdown. The end result was satisfying, though, Vincent, at long last, was auf'd.

Vincent's EW exit interview is a riot. Can you say clueless? I knew you could!

The challenge this week took place in Paris. The designers were instructed to make a garment using couture techniques -- i.e., hand finishing (Vincent used glue, but he DID do it by hand) -- in two days. The Paris runway show took place at a party on a boat traveling the Seine, truly idyllic except for the kid who threw an egg at the designers and beschmirched Michael's dress. We weren't told whether that was a political statement or not.

Po' preggers Laura (sweetie, there's a reason they call it Planned Parenthood) was almost auf'd for producing a dress Nina called "old St. Laurent." Oh, you've got it wrong again, Nina! It wasn't old St. Laurent, it was rather recent Chanel from the 2006 Resort Collection. (The top black dress is Laura's, the bottom, Chanel's). Whatever, it was another breast-bone exposing, pneumonia-inviting v-necked black sheath Laura dress. Bor-ing.

Jeffrey won by making a yellow plaid dress that looked like the bastard couture child of Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. It was a dress that only fashionistas could love, and the judging group of fashionistas did just that.

Kayne made an asymetrical strapless gown that looked like a very good version of Wendy Pepper's Season 1 wedding dress, right down to the corset with curvature of the spinal lacing. (The gold dress is Kayne's, the dress that looks like it's made out of bedsheets is Wendy's.) I'm surprised that I haven't seen any other comments about the similarities, but of course I haven't read every. single. PR. post. yet, and I probably won't. The fact that Kayne's dress was actually fit his model and didn't fall apart when she walked down the runway probably obscured the resemblance, too.

I liked Uli's dress the best. Sure it was another one of her signature flowing empire-waist dresses, but it was pretty, and I'm a slut for pretty.

Poor Michael had his first crisis of confidence during this challenge: it was he who announced to all that he was "sweatin' like a whore in church" during the final runway show. The dress he produced reflected it. The garment was a clunky ruched dress that featured what I can only describe as cinnabon-shaped breast lids. This, after Malan's disaster, should be a lesson to all future PR contestants: NO MORE RUCHING, EVER!

I thought it was too bad that Angela couldn't participate in this challenge, since its focus was hand-crafting and finishing. She could have fleurchoned the ass out of some dress -- and ruffly flower-like ornaments actually seem to be a trend, as the white Armani Privé dress at left shows -- and her excess would have been completely appropriate. But then I would have had to put up with her perkiness for another week or two. Damn the fleurchons! Full speed ahead!

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

And once more from the 30s --


Yes folks, I have another interest that's sailing close to becoming an obsession. It's the bias-cut 30s dress, a garment I can't really wear considering that corseted and structured 50s looks suit my semi-zaftig figure much better.

But look at this ruffled, tucked, bias beauty. It's for sale at Dandelion Vintage (scroll down), alas, for me, in size small. I hope some nice lady with a slender-hipped Depression era figure gives this dress a good home.

TV fashion alerts

Yes folks, there's clothing-related TV beyond Project Runway. Starting tomorrow, Thursday September 7, at 8 p.m. (the website neglects to say whether that's 8 p.m. Eastern only) the Sundance Channel will be showing "signé Chanel," which follows the creation of a couture collection for Chanel. Be warned, there will be lots of the "evil one," aka Karl Lagerfeld, but I'm also hoping there will be lots of the actual work, too. Starting Friday, September 8, the Style Network will be showing "Seventh Avenue specials, original programming, special installments of your favorite shows and hours of footage featuring the best-received looks and most celebrated celebrity appearances." In other words, lots of filler in between, if we're lucky, video of the actual runway action. Check out www.sundancechannel.com and www.eonline.com/Style/ in case the channels deign to supply us with more details.

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Magazine weight lifting.



Labor Day is the official end of the summer season, but I think the season actually ends when the ginormous September Issues of "W" and "Vogue" arrive. Even though I now follow the collections online, and therefore see fashion six months before it hits the stores, I still drop everything to pour over the September issues to divine what the fashon editors have decreed to be the latest trends and to see what I mostly won't be wearing this autumn.

This issue of Vogue has an article entitled "What's your shape?" in which, according to Vogue, "six real world women wear the look that suits them best. Which one are you?" But the introduction should really have read "Six fashion world womenwear the looks that suit them best. You most probably aren't one of them," because, day-um, the six women (mostly ex-models) all look uniformly tall and skinny to me, whether labeled "exclamation point," "X," or "hourglass" by the tunnel visioned editors of Vogue. I'm not a campaigner for fat acceptance or anything (larger ladies, I know there's more of you to love, but you know that too much more might kill you) but not even ex-models approach reality in my little world.

However, it's really the ads that bulk this issue of Vogue up to 754 pages, and I think the ads are more interesting than the photo features because they show what's available to peons like us. There are pages of ads from Target (Isaac, you done good this season, I am loving these shoes), Dillard's and *ugh* Wal-Mart. From these ads I've deduced, without even putting on my Sherlock hat, there there's going to be a lot of black on the racks: black dresses, black tights, black leggins, and black skinny pants. Can't say that I'm surprised by the funereal look, but it doesn't stir my orange/purple/fuchia loving soul. There are also a lot of oversize sweaters -- many with cowl necks, thank you very much Nina Garcia. This look available at Dillards is representative. for eye candy, lots of 30s-inspired chiffon evening gowns. Ahhh . . . eye candy!

The top gown is from Gucci, and is or will be available at Nieman-Marcus for those with lots of expendable income. The vintage purple floral bias cut dress is for sale at Woodland Farms and Vintage. I posted its picture because I think it's pretty and because it's a great example of the type of 30's floral dress I was talking about in this post. Happy fall shopping, y'all!

Friday, September 01, 2006

Project Runway -- back to normal, whatever that is!

Okay, Episode 8 was fun. What a relief.

The challenge was to create an outfit for an international jetsetter (although the sublime Tim Gunn neglected to mention that the garment was to be worn while the jetsetter was on the actual jet.) The additional twist was that the designers were to be the jetsetters, and they had to make the garments for themselves and then model it.

It was immediately apparent that the designers knew no more than I about the dress and habits of international jetsetters. (Whenever I hear "jetsetter" I think of Elizabeth Taylor in The VIPs , a movie made in, uh, 1963. Hers was a great look if you're into lots of eyeliner and towers of hair.) In fact, some of the designers had never traveled out of the U.S. As a result, they produced a bizarre assortment of garments, Angela's, of course, the most bizarre. She made walking shorts out of a guaranteed-to-wrinkle maroon silk-linen blend fabric, and she stuck her "fleurchons" all over the back of them so it looked like she had drawn a target on each ass cheek. The bizarre shorts also gave her rear-end camel toe, which I've never seen before and I hope never to see again.

Only Vinsane's garments, a plain black jersey and loose black pants, looked like something a real person would wear when traveling. And travel he did, with the rest of the designers, to Parson's in Paris. There they had the privilege of being abused by real designer Catherine Maladrino (Tim said they had to shoot the elimination six times because she said such harsh things to the bottom two). Jeffrey won for producing a great jacket, a tee-shirt adorned with a rhinestone skull, and legging-like pants that had some shiny, scary metallic objects closing the fly. Angela was auf'd, the remaining designers stay in Paris for the next challenge, and all is almost right with the world.

The problem? There are six designers and two or three challenges left, but NY Fashion Week starts September 9, so once again we'll know who the final 4 designers are and the finale will be an anti-climax AGAIN. Can't the damn producers use a calendar?

On the subject of clothes people would really wear, aka real clothes: way back in episode 4 designer Bonnie Dominguez was auf'd for producing, among other things, a cowl-neck tunic. "Who uses a cowl neck anymore?" asked dragon-lady judge Nina Garcia just before she lowered the boom on poor sweet Bonnie. Well, if you shop at Bergdorf-Goodman, lots of designers do. That would be designers like Temperley, Stella McCartney, TSE cashmere, Derek Lam, and eskandar. These cowl-necked items would probably make a much better traveling outfit than anything the PR gang produced this week. Whatever -- no one ever said reality TV has to be real.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Oooooooooh, pretty -- fabric division

I just came across this 1930s vintage silk chiffon fabric on ebay, for sale by Firefly Vintage Clothing. I love it, it's just so, so, thirties, dammit! It's also very expensive -- $240 for 4 yards -- so it's not an appropriate purchase for a sewer of my basic skills. What I want is for one of you ladies with "mad skillz" to buy it and make it into a 20s or 30s style summer afternoon frock, preferably with a bertha collar or capelet so that this pansy-studded gorgeousness will flutter around you in the breeze. Then you'll have a dress to be worn, with fabulous hat, shoes and gloves, to any event where you want to knock the eye out of the competition. The wedding of an ex-beau, for instance. The new Mrs. Ex-beau will be fussing about seating and first dances with her wedding planner and you'll be standing in the shade, sipping champagne, surrounded by future beau, all of whom are admiring you in your lovely purple dress. *sigh*

The vintage patterns are from The Vintage Pattern Lending Library. And do check out this lot of vintage dresses at eBay -- that yellow and black chiffon print is just the kind of dreamy dress I had in mind.

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Gold-plated Vintage at the Emmy Awards

I never watch award shows -- I need all my remaining braincells, thank you -- but I always pay attention to what's being worn to award shows. I used to watch the red-carpet arrivals, too, until E! eliminated any possible controversy (and therefore any possible interest) by hiring than homunculus Ryan Seacrest as its host. Anyway, on Monday I went straight to style.com and the yahoo photos to see who wore what and, as usual, I was disappointed. Lots of strapless mermaid gowns, lots of boobs (Virginia Masden, I *heart* you, but WHAT WERE YOU THINKING???), lots of women parading their borrowed fall-collection gowns in the full sun of a 102 degree August day in southern California. Lots of fug-fodder for the Go Fug Yourself gals, which is a good thing.

I also watched E!'s Fashion Police special; another bore. The hosts liked dresses I thought were just passable, like Catherine Heigel's (tight, low-cut, gold, a snore) and they dissed anything I thought was interesting, like Sandra Oh's (draped, flowing, at least appropriate on a hot summer afternoon). No wonder all the actresses look like clones, they all want a pass from the so-called experts.

I was intrigued, however, by reports that Annette Benning wore a vintage Ceil Chapman dress. Ceil Chapman, who was simply a designer of better dresses working in New York from the late 1940s to the mid 1960s, has since become the most collectible name in vintage clothing. I spent an unmentionable amount of time surfing for a decent picture of Annette in her vintage treasure. Alas, the photos at left were the best I could do, and they reveal a dress that certainly isn't the best of Ceil Chapman, who became famous because of the intricate draping of her best pieces, like this one for sale now on e-bay. I have to give Annette 10 points for trying, though (and a couple of extra for keeping her bosom where it belongs).

Monday, August 28, 2006

Project Runway -- "Mommy Dearest"

You probably already know from the thousands of other PR posts that the Judges Did It Again in Episode 7, that is, they picked a winner that made most watchers go "wah???" The winner was Vincent, aka Vinsane, who proded an ill fitting black sheath adorned with large and unusual tan -- sweet mother of 70's tan -- lapels. The wags at Project Rungay (how do I love them? a LOT) pronounced the collar "pure Carol Brady," another wit posted a comment calling the dress "soooo Sister Batrille" (that's the Singing Nun for all you young things), but when I saw that dress, I thought "Adrian!" No, not Rocky's girlfriend, the MGM costume designer Gilbert Adrian, and not good Adrian, but still . . .

Adrian's "kite lapels" or "Crawford collar" to be exact. "Gowns by Adrian" describes the style as follows: "[T]he "Crawford collar" was Adrian's little inside joke. Here was the ferfect fashion innovation for society women who never need to use their hands, as they always have someone on retainer to light their cigarettes or pour their drinks" I don't think Vinsane got the joke.

(Speaking of the fabulous Adrian, check out the photos from an exhibition of his designs at Kent State University. There are also line drawings of each garment, so you can see how they were put together. I lust after the yellow silk dress believed to have been worn by Mommy Dearest Joan Crawford herself. )

The rest of Episode 7 was as cringeworthy as the winning design. The producers had the bright idea of bringing in the designers' moms and sisters to be the design inspiration and models for this challenge. They didn't share their brainstorm with the moms and sisters, who arrived in New York thinking they were getting a surpise visit to their loved ones as a treat. The women ranged in size from very slim to very large, and after the challenge was announced the expressions on their faces left me with the impression that the larger ladies weren't that enthused about marching down the runway in whatever size 4X schmatta the designers could create in one day.

The designers weren't allowed to work with their own relatives; instead there was a very grade-school team line-up and the end result was that the prickly bad-tempered tattooed guy Jeffrey was paired with the whiny passive-aggressive plus-size Mom of his least favorite competitor, Angela. Neither Jeffrey nor Angela's Mom was shy about expressing his or her displeasure with the other. There was shouting, there were tears, there was one effin' ugly dress. In spite of the backstage drama and spectacularly poor customer relations, the judges still found Jeffrey's hot mess better than Michaels boring red tent, so that the by now thoroughly loathed Jeffrey got to stay and the beautiful Barbie Boy, Robert Best, got the boot. Farewell, fair Robert, may choirs of plastic dolls sing thee to thy rest, or at least as far as some jumping bar in West Hollywood.

Monday, August 21, 2006

Clothes on Film -- Lana Turner: Bad Acting, Great Clothes.

The woman explained herself quite well in the opening paragraph of her autobiography, LANA. I quote "One June evening in 1937, I sat in a Hollywood theatre, waiting for a preview of They Won't Forget. I played a Southern schoolgirl, Mary Clay, who would be raped and murdered. An innocent teacher would be blamed and lynched before he came to trial. I hadn't really understood the significance of the script, but I remember what I wore - a close-fitting sweater with patent-leather belt and a well-contoured skirt." -- findadeath.com.

Turner Classic Movies is doing its "Summer Under the Stars" specials this August. That's where the channel programs 24 hours featuring the work of one star. Lana Turner was featured on my birthday. She's not one of my favorite actresses by any means: by the time she made the movies that are shown most often, "Peyton Place," "Imitation of Life" and "Madame X," the mileage was really beginning to show and she had become as brittle as flint and about as expressive. But man, you had to give it up to the girl, she was always, always, beautifully, glamorously dressed, off screen and on.

Lana Turner was the Lindsay Lohan of her day. She was discovered and put into the studio system at age 15, she became an immediate sensation because of her impressive, if sweater-covered, rack, and she was wildly popular among men in their early 20s (although Lana's admirers were flying bombers over Germany instead of getting bombed in their parents' basements). Lana preferred partying to acting. At age 19, she eloped with Artie Shaw, one of the 20th Centuries most notorious serial husbands, just to piss off her boss, MGM's Louis B. Mayer. She was hospitalized for "exhaustion" (in Lana's case, aka a botched back-street abortion). And this was just the beginning of her career!

Unlike today's teen screen queens, however, Lana would never appear in public looking like a homeless person after a rough night. In fact, Lana's glamour actually helped her make a comeback after a scandal that would have ruined the career of Sarah Bernhardt, the killing of Johnny Stompanato, her sadistic gangster boyfriend by her daughter on Good Friday, 1958. The L.A. coroner's office bought Lana's story that her daughter was trying to protect her from Johnny during a fight between the lovers, and ruled the killing justifiable homicide, but rumors continued to circulate that Lana had done the deed and let her daughter take the rap.

To recover from the scandal, and earn some much needed cash, Lana agreed to forgo her usual fee to star in "Imitation of Life" for half the film's profits. As a publicity stunt, or perhaps as an effort to whitewash the sepulchre, Lana's wardrobe for that movie was the most expensive to date, $1.079 million dollars of Jean Louis gowns and Laykin et Cie jewels. The gowns and jewels were the perfect props for an actress who belonged to the "stop, pose, speak" school of acting.

"Imitation of Life" has been praised as a "brave" film about race issues, but I find it cringe-worthy to watch. Miss Lora, the white benefactress, is a little too good to be true; Annie, the African-American housekeeper, is not merely a jewel but a saint and way, way too devoted to Miss Lora for modern-viewing comfort; Lora's teenage daughter, whose crisis is falling for her mother's boyfriend, is a bore; and Annie's teenage daughter, who is trying to pass for white, is too damn sexy (although she does get to wear a show-stopping peach wiggle dress in one scene). This movie was made five years after "Brown v. Board of Education" and three years after the Montgomery bus boycotts, after all.

Oh well, the film's politics might be dated but the clothes are classic.

Saturday, August 19, 2006

Project Runway -- Here's a big "Harry Winston up yours" to you!


I wasn't going to blog about PR any more because everybody in the fashion blogosphere is already blogging about PR, and in a more timely manner. (In case you missed any of the thousands of recaps and comments on the internet, PR airs its original episodes on Wednesday). However, when my favorite food blogger, the very charming and diet-destroying Amateur Gourmet interrupts his usual program to post an agonized statement about the outcome of Episode 6, I have to concede that the PR thing is bigger than I am, resistance is futile, and I might as well comment about it here because the damn TWOP threads are moving like the speed of light and I'll never catch up enough to comment there.

For you kind people who come here to read about vintage clothing and not TV, I can guarantee you this -- I will NEVER write about American Idol.

Anyway, here's the deal. The Episode 6 challenge was a trick challenge, that is, the designers had to make clothing out of something weird. The were bused to New Jersey, thrown into a recycling center, and told that they had to make their next garments out of the recycled material. So the designers hauled buckets of refuse back to Parsons and they set to work making dresses out of mylar, paper, plastic sheeting, newspaper and one old copy of Martha Stewart's "Living."

In spite of the odd and uncooperative materials, the outfits they produced were exactly what you'd expect from each of them. Jeffrey, the Tattoo Guy, made a complex and funky dress. Michael from A.T.L. made a dress for a fashion intellectual. Laura made something for the Ladies Who Lunch (oh, best comment evah about Laura, here). Perky Angela made a weird granola granny streetwalker suit of armor. Fraulein Uli made something, uh, Uli. Robert "Mr. Barbie" finally loosened up enough to make a dress Barbie would wear (keep it up, Robert!) and Vincent, well, Vincent made something insane.

The initial unexpected underdog was Kayne, Pageant Guy. He initially made a gown with a huge, stiff, bottle-cap studded paper skirt. The garment looked like it had a bad case of frog acne. The lovely, soft-spoken, so-sweet-she'd-cry-for-a-cheat Alison also had a false start, but she tossed out her original design an made the intricate origami number pictured above. Her dress wasn't anything anyone would wear (excluding paper fetishists), but neither was anything else -- they were made out of trash, for pete's sake.

And Princess Alison was auf'd for the most horrible sin a person can commit in fashion-land; her dress, in the judges' opinion, made her model look fat.

If Alexandra, Alison's model, looks fat, or zaftig as Tim Gunn said, then I must look like the Goodyear blimp. Just slip my moorings and fly me over the Superbowl, m'kay?

The prevailing opinion of most posting PR fans is that Alison was auf'd because she didn't bring teh drama. In fact, the remaining designers are the bitchy, the camp, and the crazy (except Uli, who'd better put on her bitch game face before she loses drama points too). So we viewers will be getting plenty of drama, but good design? Maybe not so much.

Speaking of drama, in this episode Laura, she of the unfortunate clavicle, was revealed to be the uniformly disliked bitch of the season. At the end of the program, she was shown chewing out Vincent for somehow evading aufing yet again. Vincent fired back, telling her to "stick some Harry Winston's up her nose," which has to be the weirdest "up yours" I've ever heard.

Summary: Michael won, Jeffrey should have won. Alison was auf'd, Vincent should have been auf'd. Ah well, controversy brings in viewers, doesn't it?

Friday, August 11, 2006

Captain Sav-a-ho -- Project Runway Episode 6

The challenge this week was to modernize the look of a fashion icon. The icons (or in this case, "icons") in question were Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Katherine Hepburn, Pam Grier, Diana Ross, Marilyn Monroe, Twiggy and Cher. I had some philosophical problems with this challenge. For example, the designers were warned not to design anything retro. Well, poo, I says to myself, what's wrong with retro -- especially when some of the icons' signature looks, like Jackie Kennedy's neat structured suits and Twiggy's babydoll dresses and shifts, are all over the runways this season? Audrey-like little black dresses never go out of style. Another problem was that at least two of the designers had no clue who their icons were and what they wore. Bradley, incredibly, knew nothing about Cher, and Allison knew knew nothing about Farrah Fawcett, although I wouldn't call either of those women fashion icons. If this challenge had been described as modernizing the look of a gay icon I think some of the designers would have been more successful. (What? No Elizabeth Taylor?)

Michael Knight (who, when he defended Angela, said "I'm not trying to play Captain Save-a-ho", a phrase that I'm sure just entered the general vernacular), was the clear winner of the challenge. He knew who his icon, Pam Grier, was, and he made a beautifully constructed and fitting eye-catching pink outfit. And he did it all with minimum drama, even though he scrapped his first design mid-project. I do believe Michael's going to to win this season.

I wasn't on board with the judges' other two favorite designs, Kayne's Goth gown for Marilyn, because it made his model's butt look lumpy, and Angela's LBD for Audrey Hepburn, because it was made by Angela. Audrey would never have worn anything that exposed half her chest, anyway. I thought Uli's flamboyant purple gown for Diana Ross was better than either of those. Michael Kors was spot on when he called Vincent's Twiggy dress "more Brady bunch than Twiggy." Oh, welcome back, Mr. Kors! The other outfits were okay, even Robert Best's boring beige Jackie suit, or, like Jeffrey's Madonna costume, insane. Po' Bradley, who has been suffering a crisis of confidence, was auf'd for his tin-man Cher costume. I liked Bradley, but he clearly had no killer gene, which is essential for a reality show contestant.

Show-wise, PR has a real problem -- most of the best stuff winds up in the bonus videos at bravotv.com. Ah well, the more for the extended version DVD.

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Mo' pretty!

I love unusual -- okay, loud -- color combinations, like red and pink, red and purple, red, pink and purple. My yard is full of pots planted with purple easter-egg alyssum, tomato-red geraniums and orange african daisies, all surrounded by red and coral mini rose bushes and purple butterfly bushes. So when I saw the dress at left, a balloon dress, no less, in a red and pinky-purple floral print, I had yet another "ooooooh, pretty" moment. I confess, I live for those.

This dress is for sale at antiquedress.com, which has quite a collection of balloon, bubble, and tulip dresses for sale at the moment. At the other end of the silhouette spectrum, it also has this wiggle dress, with *swoon* a modified petal bodice, in a super fantastic orange/magenta/turquoise print. Oh, I lust for that fabric! I (The dress itself, alas, is too expensive and too small for me.) The hot-pink gown with the fabulous Watteau train also caught my eye. I'm firmly convinced that the world would be a better place if more women wore dresses with Watteau trains (and voted for progressive Democrats).

Antiquedress.com does a fabulous job of displaying the dresses on sale. The photos, which are many and large, look like they were taken by a professional photographer, or at least in a studio environment with professional equipment. They, and the web-site maintenance, must cost the webmistress a mint and it appears that she prices her items accordingly, which is not to say that the garments aren't spectacular themselves. No matter; I'm just browsing, and the browsing is good.

Almost as good as solitaire

An unsolicited e-mail from Jon made it through my spam filter the other day, and actually, I'm glad it did. Jon politely asked me if I, as someone "very active in the fashion bloggersphere" would look at his new site, www.fashmatch.com and give him my opinion (and later a plug). So I went on over there and got sucked in -- dayum, putting together outfits is almost as much fun as kittenwars or The Dick Cheney Quail Hunt. But be warned! The site plays music, so be sure to turn off your speakers if you're planning to put together a wardrobe while you're on the clock. Here it is, Jon's plug and your time waster: fashMatch.com.

Friday, August 04, 2006

They don't bubble the way they used to.

Vogue has made it official: The Bubble is a Fall Trend. Indeed, bubble skirts can be found from Nieman-Marcus to Walmart. I've been intrigued by relative novelty of these drapey items, so I've tried on a few -- and rapidly removed them. All I could do was stare, and not in a good way, when a middle-aged woman waltzed into My Favorite Muffin at 10:00 a.m. wearing a shiney silver bubble rendered in some crinkley material (I think it was this one, in fact). So bubbles may be a current trend, but as far as I'm concerned, they don't quite work.

However, I still like the idea of bubbles, balloons, and their kinder, gentler sister, the tulip skirt, in theory and in vintage. Look at these beautiful examples from the past; the pattern from Fuzzy Lizzy Vintage (click on photo for link), the cinnamon tulip dress formerly for sale by emmapeelpants (can you stand it?) on ebay. Here's another gorgeous example, once again, already sold, that'll give you an idea of what a dress made from this pattern might look like.

The vintage balloon/bubble/tulip dresses work, I think, because they're for evening, when fanciful dress is expected, and because the designers Committed to The Bubble (but not in an '80's way) and went with lots of volume. The current crop of full gathered skirts look rather deflated and tomboyish in comparison, whereas a proper bubble dress just has to be full-tilt girly. Dresses with the bubble silhouette also work better than skirts because they solve the nagging question "what the hell do I wear with this?" With a dress, the wearer just has to Commit to the Bubble, put on a great pair of shoes, and go.